Ontario. And the end of week 3 of travel on the coast to coast odyssey

Today we officially left Ontario behind, no more brief jaunts back and forth across the Ontario/Quebec border which was necessitated by the kind invitation of my friends Gaya and Jim, fellow Zihuatanejo regulars of days past,  who reside north of Ottawa which is Quebec, just outside the famed Gatineau Parc.  They live in a charming lakeside home that was a surprise to us by it's remoteness and confusing access.  Never mind that road signs and addresses are all in French and that even the obligatory country deer have been given a "joie de vivre" that is indicative of the French culture of this part of the world.  But I will reserve my post about Quebec for another day and time as I really want to review how we "did" Ontario.  

Entering Ontario from the West, one is immediately transported into a landscape of rocky outcroppings and small lakes that dot the forested landscape.  Ontario is a large province and it clearly falls into the "have" category with well maintained roads, sophisticated signage and reststops.  It was a welcome change to be once again looking at landscape that reminds me of BC, but in a less dramatic kind of way.  


 This northwestern area of Ontario is where furtrading, First Nations encounters with the whites and Canadian history was made.  Our first night camping in a Provincial park, we spent at Kakabeka Falls.  This location was a revelation into the role the route we were taking played in Canada's early days post colonial invasion.
Heading around Lake Superior the next day was a lengthy journey of First Nation's settlements, remote from the metropolises of the Toronto area.  Hunting and fishing are the key tourist activities in the North and there was no shortage of small lakes for as far as the eye could see.
 I sadly did not take photos of the pink granite rock cliffs on either side of the highway but the sand at the beach on Lake Superior, a wonderful Provincial Park that is worthy of a few days stay, gives a good idea of the colorful rock that the Canadian Shield is made of.
Our last night on our own was spent camping at a private campground on Manitoulin Island, a community that seems to exist for the purpose of tourism and is the terminal for the ferry to Tobermory which we fortunately had reserved for the early sailing the next morning.

Ontario ferries win my approval for their casual yet professional level of service and pricing.  And for their placement of doggie friendly Adirondack chairs in places to take advantage of the spectacular views as we crossed the channel to the Georgian Bay side of Lake Huron.


Only a short drive past Owen Sound is Amy and Patrick's Sideroad Farm and my only grandchild (until November).  Wyatt played tour guide to Tom and I as we experienced the world of small organic farming at the peak of the season.




 I enjoyed a Sunday afternoon with Amy and Wyatt touring the small towns nearby that I had always wanted to see.  Wyatt brought his dinosaurs on the tour.
Amy has long been a lover of horses and her dream to own her own has finally been realized.  Raven and Midnight are horses that need a little extra time to adjust to people, so even though she can't ride while pregnant, she works with her two horses on a daily basis. It's a two way love affair.
 Leaving the farm three days later was bitter sweet as there is so much I feel I could do to help them if I lived closer but the reality is I'm far away and they are managing without me.  At my next visit their farmstore will be open, and there will be two grandchildren to share my time with.  And my love.




Our next stop was to an area I know little about.  The Kawartha Lakes.  We were advised to stop at Kirkfield a major lock along the Trent Severn waterway which links Lake Ontario, the access to the St. Lawrence Seaway with the smaller lakes such as Simcoe and the Kawartha system.

Dave and Sharon, who are parents to Kristen's partner Lee, live in the small and perfect town of Bobcaygeon made famous by the Tragically Hip.  I prefer to think it's been made famous in my mind because our hosts not only treated us to a perfect town tour, we each bought new shoes at "Bigley's", had our first freshwater swim and enjoyed a waterside dinner but they also provided us with a safe haven to spend the night when the CBC and my cellphone blasted repeated warnings of tornados in our area.  Being in a small travel trailer and knowing what the force of a tornado could be is not a good combo so I will be eternally grateful for the night spent in their lower level guest room.


The next day we left taking an "off the beaten path" route to my friends home outside of Ottawa.  Crossing the Ottawa River is your entry point to the province of Quebec. 
Out of cellphone reception and with no GPS satellite signal finding the area known as "Alcove Quebec" we will always be grateful that Jim and Gaya came to our rescue and guided us to their beautiful lakeside home on the shores of a small jewel called Lac de Notre Dame.
Every morning and night is spent listening to the haunting songs of loons in an otherwise silent landscape. 
After swim and dinner we enjoyed a spin around the lake on Jim's pontoon boat.

 Up bright and early to head to Ottawa, Jim was the perfect tour guide escorting us into the city past the small French towns of Wakefield and Chelsea.  Then we took it from there!

 First stop, on a 19,000 or 13 km walking day was Parliament Hill...of course!
Then the locks on the famous Rideau Canal.  What an example of ingenuity building a system of locks to prevent the invasion of Canada at a time when there was still no certainty of the fate of our vast landscape from invasion by the Americans.  If only our problems were as solvable today. 



Next stop was the National Art Gallery...big on my bucket list!  And I was not disappointed.




 Then we headed over the Pont Alexandra to view the Gatineau (Quebec again) mosaiculture garden.  Wow!


 Back across the Pont Alexandra with the parliament hill to guide us, we wound our way thru Byward Market for a quick bite.



A few years ago I had been told that there was a rather famous deli in "little Italy" area of Ottawa so we headed there and indeed, likely some long lost family connection of my Italian ancestors own this modest but delicious food venue. 
Heading back to Quebec again we stopped in the charming scenic French town of Wakefield...a covered bridge destination!  Another bucket list item.




Our final drive back to our friends home highlighted for me the vast pastoral landscape just outside Ottawa.  I give Ottawa full marks as a well designed and beautifully organized city with no urban sprawl, just a landscape rich in history and charm.  


Now we are officially "on our own". No more friends to stay with until we reach the end of US Historic Route 20 Oregon in 7 more weeks.  Tonight we are "glamping" in a very well kept KOA site outside of Montreal.  Resting up for another marathon of sightseeing when we "do" Montreal in a day tomorrow.  

And as Tom reminded me when I naively exclaimed "that's my first view of the Saint Lawrence Seaway"...this will be my first view of a lot of places from now on.  Bon nuit!  

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